The removal of oil-based paint or other paint from wood and similar sidings requires a fair amount of work. However, if your home is old but has quality siding, removing many years worth of layered paint can be part of a rewarding restoration.
Instructions
Inspection, Material Replacement, EPA Compliance & Prep
1. Determine that the siding will hold up to the process and mark any boards that are damaged beyond repair for replacement.
2. Remove and replace damaged boards.
3. If the paint went on before 1978, it most likely contains lead. You need to find out how much you can do yourself without a lead abatement certification, especially in the United States. Although the EPA reclassified residential lead paint as household waste in 2001, states did not necessarily adapt the definition. New federal EPA regulations were expected in April 2010 for abating lead paint removed from more than 20 square feet of exterior surface.
4. Lay down plastic and protect from particulate air drift as necessary. You may need to have someone keep the dust moistened. Make sure you have adequate protective clothing and masks. Power tools like shavers, grinders and sanders may need to be equipped with HEPA filtration.
Removing the Paint
5. Paint shavers have sharp blades that spin at high speeds to remove multiple layers of paint at once. Newer ones are lighter but will still give you a workout. Place the guide against the surface and carefully work your way across the material, taking care to keep the cutting blade housing parallel to the surface.
6. Infrared paint strippers are relatively new technology and work great. They will melt multiple layers of paint without threatening the underlying wood surfaces. Good ones run about $500. They are available used and for rent. The top end models offer a hands-free option that allows you to move the stripper along while having both hands free to scrape the residue. Simply hold the device over the paint until the layers melt and scrape off with sharp hand scrapers.
7. The shaver or the hand scrapers used with the infrared stripper will leave the surface uneven, and some paint may still be left. A power paint scraper has a metal disc embedded with an abrasive. Use it like you would an orbital disc sander.
8. As an alternative to a disc scraper, you can use a disc sander with a 60 or 80 grit paper. It will work as well, but you will go through a fair amount of sandpaper discs. Use finer grit sandpaper over the whole surface to prep it for priming and then painting.
9. There will be areas you cannot reach with power tools, such as where the siding meets window and door frames, and the frames themselves. Consider using a quality paint stripper for these areas, taking care not to apply on a hot day when the solvents and chemicals could evaporate before the chemicals can react with the paint. Use one that is as least toxic as possible. Many contain known carcinogens, so handle with care. Apply per directions and scrape off.
Abatement Issues
10. Heat guns, torches and similar devices are dangerous to use because of fire hazards. They are also illegal for use in lead paint abatement situations.
11. Wet and dry blasting and powerwashing often do more harm than good to exterior wood, and these methods might not be legal in lead abatement situations.
12. Carefully clean up your job site and follow guidelines from the EPA, your state or your local municipality for disposal of lead in your area. Handle your protective clothing carefully.
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