Peeling paint must be removed from clapboard siding before it can be repainted.
Many older homes, and especially those built before the advent of vinyl siding, have wood clapboard siding. This form of exterior finish is more durable and insulates better than its manufactured cousins, but is more difficult to maintain. Fresh paint must be applied every decade or so depending upon weathering and wear, and many homes with this form of siding now have multiple coats of paint in various stages of disrepair. Replacing the siding with vinyl is quicker, but repairing and refurbishing the wood siding is much cheaper and will result in a better end product.
Instructions
1. Determine the extent of damage and the amount of paint already on the house by using a heat gun and putty knife on a small section of siding on the back of the house. Point the heat gun 3 to 4 inches from the siding on the high setting until the paint begins to bubble. Using the putty knife at a very slight angle, slide it between the paint and the wood to remove a small strip of paint. You will be able to tell from the depth of the removed strip how much paint is on the house. You can also have the strip tested for the existence of lead paint. If there is lead paint, be sure to use a breather and non-porous gloves for the remainder of the project. If the depth of paint is consistent and more than 1/8 inch thick, you can use an electric hand planer for everything except corners and seams, saving a lot of time. If the paint is chipped in many places or of inconsistent depth, you will need to use the heat gun and putty knives on the entire project.
2. If you are able to use a hand planer, do so on the wide sections of the siding. You will still need to use the heat gun and putty knife for the corners and seams. Get a variety pack of putty knives since different areas of the siding will require varying sizes of putty knives (for instance, the seams between each run of siding will require a very narrow putty knife). Go slow to make sure that the paint is fully separated from the house before scraping off to avoid damaging the wood. Be sure to remove all paint from the seams, trim and corners; any loose paint will make the finishing coat less durable.
3. Once the paint has been removed from the house, repair any divots or damage to the wood with professional wood filler. Use sixpenny nails and a hammer to tighten up any loose siding, and use waterproof caulk to fill and gaps in the seams or corners. Once this repair had been completed, you can use an electric hand sander with a medium-grit sandpaper to remove paint residue and provide a good surface for the primer. It is not necessary to sand deep into the wood. Older oil- and lead-based paints will stain the wood to some degree, but as long as the surface of the siding is smooth and consistent, you can paint over it. Once sanded, you will want to either wash the siding with a garden hose or wipe it clean of dust and debris with a damp towel. Any remaining dust will make it more difficult for your paint to adhere correctly.
4. Apply a high-quality exterior primer toned to match your finishing paint. Start from the top of the house and work down to cover up any drips or runs. You can use a spray rig to save time, but you will want to avoid painting on windy days and set up a lot of drop cloths to keep from dusting your neighbors, yard, windows and vehicles. Be sure to paint deep into the seams between the runs of siding to provide a good moisture barrier. You may need to apply two coats depending on the saturation of the first coat.
5. Use a high-quality exterior paint to apply the finishing coat. Use the same technique of painting from top to bottom to avoid runs and drips. You will most likely want to paint at least two coats for a solid and long-lasting finish. Give extra attention to the seams between the siding; your primer may have dried and receded, allowing for air holes to form.
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