Fresh paint Bricks To Appear Vintage

Make bricks look older by applying basic hardware supplies.

Brick walls are durable and efficient, but they may not add to the vintage decorative style or look you are trying to achieve. Make your brick walls look more vintage by painting them with whitewash. Whitewash is a traditional style of painting that you can apply as thin or heavy as you prefer; it creates a brick surface that will match the rest of your decor. Apply whitewash paint over the bricks yourself using a few basic and inexpensive hardware supplies.

Instructions

1. Pour 1 gallon of latex whitewash into a 5 gallon bucket, then add in 2 gallons of water to dilute the whitewash. Stir the mixture with a paint stick to combine the two ingredients completely.

2. Scrub the bricks using a grease-fighting soap, water and a scrub brush to remove any dirt, debris or staining. Allow the bricks to air dry for 8 hours.

3. Paint the whitewash over the brick wall in a variegated layer using a 4-inch flat paintbrush. The whitewash will naturally become variegated, or irregular in appearance, as you paint. The variegation allows the finished brick wall to look vintage and antiqued. Allow the whitewash to air dry for 8 to 10 hours.

4. Apply a layer of masonry sealant over the whitewashed brick wall using a paint roller, then allow the sealant to dry for 8 to 10 hours. The sealant creates a waterproof layer that will protect the whitewash from damage and weathering.

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Become Older Fresh paint Off Brick

Removing old paint from bricks is a tricky business. Brick is porous so many products that work on other surfaces will damage or discolor it. Try using the least complicated method first: a stiff bristled brush. If the brush does not work, use a soy-based gel paint remover. The gel will safely remove the old paint with minimum fuss and without damaging the bricks. Soy-based gel paint removers also remove lead and latex paint, enamel paint, varnishes and urethane from brick, concrete, wood and tile.

Instructions

1. Wear old clothes or a protective coverall, goggles, face mask and rubber gloves. Put down a drop cloth under your work area.

2. Before buying a chemical paint remover try a stiff bristled scrub brush. Apply pressure and move the brush in different directions (up and down, side to side) to get the best results.

3. Test a small area, behind a door or furniture first to see if the gel causes discoloration to the brick.

4. Using a paint brush apply a thick layer, up to 1/8-inch, of soy-based gel paint remover. The gel does not run or drip and can be used on walls, ceilings and floors. It can safely be used inside as well as outside. The gel will look wet when it is applied and should not be allowed to dry out.

5. Wait for at least an hour before using a paint scraper. Remove a small portion of the gel to determine if the paint has softened. If the paint has not softened, wait another hour and recheck. The gel can stay for several hours, even overnight, without harming the brick.

6. Cover the gel with polythene plastic if it starts to dry out.

7. Once the paint is softened, remove both the soy-based gel paint remover and the old paint using a paint scraper or other stripping tool.

8. Clean the remaining gel residue with a damp cloth or kitchen scrub pad.

9. Re-apply the gel as many times as needed (to dry bricks)to completely remove the old paint.

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Fresh paint Rough Stucco Having A Curler

The textured surface of stucco requires a heavy application of paint.

Stucco is a masonry adhesive usually applied to a building's exterior for protection or decoration. Applied as a wet paste, stucco hardens to a textured and very dense solid. Stucco tends to be colorless or drab, so it is often painted to complement the decor of the building to which it is applied. Because of stucco's very rough texture, a roller cartridge with a thick pile density (long fibers) must be used to ensure sufficient paint coverage.

Instructions

1. Clean the stucco to be painted using a garden hose and a scrub brush. A mild dish detergent may be used to help clean away any dried dirt or other debris.

2. Place a plastic pan insert into the paint pan. Fill the bottom of the pan with primer.

3. Coat the roller cartridge with a generous layer of primer and begin rolling it onto the stucco. Use more primer as needed, until the stucco is completely coated. Attach an extension handle to the roller if necessary.

4. Allow the primer to set and harden for 24 hours, or for the time suggested by the manufacturer. Remove the plastic insert holding the primer from the paint pan.

5. Place a fresh plastic insert into the pan and fill it with paint. The paint you choose should contain either urethane or acrylic resins to create a lasting bond on the stucco's rough texture.

6. Dip a fresh roller cartridge into the paint and roll it onto the stucco. Cover the stucco with a light first coat and then cover it with a generous second coat.

7. Check all areas of the stucco for complete coverage, spot-treating any unpainted areas with a paintbrush. Allow the paint to dry for the time suggested by the manufacturer.

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Fresh paint An Area Gold

Gold paint needs to be thoroughly blended throughout the painting process.

Painting a room gold takes a little extra effort due to the heavier particle-laden paint. The key is to keep the paint mixed throughout the painting process to ensure an even color throughout the room. To keep the paint properly mixed, an electric paint mixer should be used. This tool can be found at any paint supply store. Applying the gold paint can be done using a common brush and roller, but the application technique used is somewhat specialized.

Instructions

1. Pour a gallon of paint into a five-gallon bucket. Stir the paint using an electric paint mixer every five minutes during the entire painting process to keep the paint blended.

2. Pour a half-quart of paint into the handheld paint holder. Dip the paintbrush into the paint until the bristles of the brush are loaded with paint.

3. Cut in the corners of the ceiling and the walls with the paintbrush, feathering the paint out onto the walls and ceilings at least four-inches. Feather the paint to ensure the paint is evenly spread out over the surface area without highs or lows.

4. Load the roller with paint, rolling off the excess paint onto the roller screen. Then paint the ceiling one roller width at a time. Roll on the paint in a back and forth motion. After applying the second roller-width of paint, blend the lines between the first and second roller widths. Blend all subsequent lines each time you add a new roller-width of paint until the entire ceiling is painted.

5. Follow the instructions in step four to paint the walls in the room in an up and down motion.

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Remove Acrylic Interior Fresh paint From Wood Trim

Removing paint from wood trim can be the first step in remodeling.

The acrylic latex interior paint used for household applications is a water-based paint that remains water soluble while wet. For removal purposes from wood trim, this means the newer the paint application, the better. Wet acrylic paint can be wiped off quickly and effectively, but even after drying, the paint can be removed without harm to the trim beneath. The removal process however, changes along with the length of time the paint has been present on the wood, as well as with the porous nature of the wood used as your trim.

Instructions

1. Remove still wet paint on the trim by wiping the paint off with a clean rag. Blot up the paint with the rag, removing as much of the wet paint as possible, turning or changing the rag as necessary to provide a clean surface. Remove any residue not blotted up by the rag by applying glycerin soap to the area with hot water and washing the last traces of the paint away.

2. Scratch newly dried acrylic interior paint with your fingernail to determine if light scraping removes the material. The success rate of scraping away the paint rises depending on how nonporous your wood trim is. The less porous, the more likely you can remove the paint with light scraping.

3. Mix a teaspoon of TSP with a cup of warm water. Sip a sponge into the mix and then blot the paint with the wet sponge, wetting down the paint without saturation. Scrub the paint away from the wood using a nylon brush. Repeat as necessary until you've removed the paint from the surface of the trim.

4. Use sandpaper and acetone to remove tough to scrape away paint from the trim. Sand the paint down to the wood finish using fine-grit sandpaper, taking care not to sand away the wood trim beneath the paint. Wipe the paint with damp cotton balls dipped in acetone. Allow the acetone to dissolve the paint on the trim. Wipe away the dissolved paint using a clean cloth and then wash the surface clean with the TSP mixture.

5. Brush a layer of latex paint stripper onto the paint if the wood used is particularly porous as the paint will have seeped deeply into the trim surface. Wait the stripper manufacturer's recommended time for the stripper to dissolve the paint and then wipe the paint away with a clean rag. Wash the surface with the TSP mixture after paint removal to get rid of any stripper residue.

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Make Stripes For Interior Planning Fresh paint

Tone-on-tone stripes give walls an artistic depth.

Painting striped walls is one of the simplest interior design techniques available to help you change the entire look of a room. Not only do you add depth and interest, but painting wall stripes is a whole lot less work than putting up striped wallpaper, and easier to replace when you decide on another change. The trick to professional-looking painted wall stripes is in your preparation. The more carefully you prepare, the better the results.

Instructions

1. Collect paint sample cards to find the right colors.

Pick your paint colors and finishes. Tone-on-tone stripes are more subtle, and you can add a lot of depth by making the base coat a flat or eggshell finish, and the stripes satin or glossy.

2. Tape off all doorways, windows, outlets and other trim with low-tack painter's tape. Cover the floor and any furniture that can't be removed from the room with dropcloths.

3. Paint the base coat on with a wide roller. Let it dry according to the manufacturer's recommendations and apply a second coat if the color is not as deep or true as you like. Let it dry completely.

4. It's important to figure out how much wall space you have.

Measure your walls with a tape measure. Add up the total number of inches. For example, a rectangular room with 10-foot short walls and 14-foot long walls comes out to 48 total feet. Multiply that by 12 inches per foot and you have a total of 576 inches to work with.

5. Use the calculator to try out different widths until you find a number that comes out evenly. Our hypothetical room is a total of 576 inches. To put 5-inch stripes, you will have 115.2 stripes--that half stripe is going to look funny all by itself. Go up to 6 inches and you can fit 96 stripes. Wider stripes are more casual, while narrow ones are more formal.

6. Start at one corner of the room and measure off 6-inch increments. Start at floor level and work up, both for horizontal and vertical stripes. This is easier than moving a stepladder every few stripes.

7. Draw lines up the wall at your pencil marks, using a 4-foot carpenter's level as your straight-edge, and to make sure your lines are straight. Measure the width at several different points as you go, to ensure you are staying true.

8. Put low-tack painter's tape along the outside edges of the pencil lines. Place a sticky note between the outside edges of the tape to mark the spots you are not going to paint. After a full day of painting, especially if there are two or more painters, you can get confused about which pairs of tape get paint between them. The sticky notes will keep you on track.

9. Use an edging brush to line the sides of the first stripe. Go all the way from the ceiling to the floor, and then use a paint brush or small roller to fill in the stripe.

10. Paint three or four more stripes and then go back and remove the painter's tape. It's easier to get it of off the wall when the paint is still tacky.

11. Repeat painting a few stripes at a time and then removing the tape for the rest of the room. Let the paint dry overnight before moving furniture back in or hanging artwork or curtains.

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Develop A Spray Booth

Commercial spray booths are great for applying finishes in a controlled atmosphere, but most people find them too expensive to use at home. However, if you are using a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) spray gun indoors without a spray booth, you are exposing yourself to harmful chemicals. Follow the steps below to build a simple, inexpensive and effective spray booth in about a day. Your lungs will thank you.

Instructions

1. Buy or find a fan with a separate motor. That way, the fan can be connected by a fan belt in the spray booth, with the motor housed in an upper box to prevent it from getting covered in over spray. Your fan can be as big as you want, but the more air you move through your spray booth, the more air you will have to replace in your shop and the quicker your shop temperature will change. Get a 1/4 horsepower explosion-proof motor to power the fan unless you are only spraying water-based finishes. In that case, the motor doesn't have to be explosion proof.

2. Build a plywood box to house the fan. The box should be about a foot deep, open at both ends and big enough to fit the fan on one end and a furnace filter on the other. Cut a two-by-four to length and attach it to the center of one end. Then mount the fan to the center of the two-by-four. Cut two strips of narrow wood for the other end of the box, and attach one to the top and one to the bottom to keep the furnace filter from being sucked into the fan while the spray booth is operated. Finally, attach four button catches to hold the filter in place.

3. Cut a notch in the top of the box that is big enough for the fan belt to fit through, and bolt the motor to the top of the box. Then, build a box around the motor to shield it from over spray. Leave a space in the box for the electric cord to exit.

4. Place the box in an open window and build a small stand to support it if necessary. Seal any open spaces around the box to maximize the air flow in the spray booth.

5. Hang plastic curtains on either side of the window to create an open-ended tunnel, about 8 feet long and wide enough for you to fit inside while you are spraying. Hang the curtains on a track so they are easier to push out of the way when you are not using the spray booth.

6. Plug the motor in, pull the curtains shut, load up your HVLP spray gun and you are ready to spray.

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Provide Your House Exterior A Transformation

Small changes can have big impacts in sprucing up your home's exterior.

Whether you are getting ready to sell or just want to spruce up your home, giving its exterior a makeover will improve curb appeal and give your house a fresh look that will welcome you home each evening. Even small changes can have a big impact, so don't assume you have to make major improvements or spend thousands of dollars. You can perk up your home yourself, and in just a weekend or two have an improved look to your house.

Instructions

1. Hose down the exterior of your house with a strong hose spray or a power washer. Removing dirt and cobwebs will quickly freshen up the home's appearance.

2. Repaint the exterior trim on your home. Freshen up tired paint with a new coat in the same color as your existing paint, or go with a new color for a new look.

3. Clean out rain gutters, and replace any that are broken or rotted. Sweep fallen leaves or other debris from your roof.

4. Install a new porch light fixture, and replace any old, broken or unattractive lighting fixtures leading up your front walkway.

5. Hang shutters for a functional and decorative touch. Home improvement centers have a wide range of shutters in different sizes, colors and materials.

6. Improve your landscaping by pulling weeds, mowing, trimming hedges and shrubs, and planting some flowers.

7. Replace your mailbox with a new model that complements your home.

8. Repaint your home street number on the curb in front of your house, and attach new, bright metal address numerals to the front of your house near the front entry.

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Go To A Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum

Visit a Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum

Laura Ingalls Wilder, author of the popular "Little House" children's book series is an American legend. Her stories have inspired generations of fans and devoted readers. Today, fans of the "Little House" books can visit a number of historical sites devoted to the life of Laura Ingalls Wilder and her family.

Instructions

Visit Pepin Wisconsin

1. Follow Wisconsin Highway 35 north to the small village of Pepin, Wisconsin, the birthplace of Laura Ingalls Wilder.

2. Travel seven miles north of Pepin along the Country Highway CC to visit the little log cabin that is the setting for Laura Ingalls Wilder's first book, "Little House in the Big Woods."

3. Take part in the annual Laura Ingalls Wilder Days each September which features a fiddling contest, essay contest and many pioneer crafts and activities.

Visit Malone, New York

4. Visit the small town of Malone located in upstate New York, childhood home of Almanzo Wilder, husband of Laura Ingalls Wilder.

5. Travel northeast from Malone on US Route 11 for two and half miles, then turn on Country Route 23 until you reach the Donahue Road. From there turn right on the Stacy Road. The Wilder Homestead will be on your left.

6. Take a tour of the original house that belonged to Almanzo's parents and was the setting of for the "Little House" book "Farmer Boy" anytime between May and October. Most tours take between 30 and 60 minutes.

7. Peruse the on-site museum and gift shop to see the large collection of antique farm equipment and old-fashioned gifts.

Visit De Smet, South Dakota

8. Visit De Smet, South Dakota, the setting of five of the "Little House" books, including "Little Town on the Prairie" and "These Happy Golden Years."

9. Watch the "Little House" Pageant, held each July, on the open prairie, one mile from De Smet.

10. Go to the Surveyors House, the setting of "On the Shores of Silver Lake." The house has been moved from its original site to a lot in the heart of De Smet.

11. Take a tour of the Ingalls Family Home, where Ma and Pa Ingalls lived after they finished farming on their claim. The site is filled with many personal artifacts from the Ingalls Family.

12. Stop by the replica of the Brewster School, where Laura first taught.

Visit Mansfield, Missouri

13. Travel to the Ozark Hills in Eastern Missouri, to Mansfield, final home of Laura Ingalls Wilder and her husband, Almanzo.

14. Follow Route 60 through Mansfield to Rocky Ridge Farm, the home of Laura and Almanzo, and their daughter, Rose Wilder Lane.

15. Take a tour of the farmhouse Laura and Almanzo built, using timber and stones from their land.

16. Gaze upon the living room, kitchen and bedrooms, preserved as they were in 1956, at the time of Laura's death.

17.Make a tax deductible donation to the Laura Ingalls Wilder Historic Home and Museum, so that others can enjoy this piece of American history.

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Be Considered A Latex Primersealer Professional

Knowing the properties and uses of paints will save a great deal of time, money and work over time. The right paint choice will help the finish last its longest and look its best.

Instructions

1. Know the properties of the paint. Latex primer sealer is a nonflammable paint. It dries quickly and has almost no paint fumes. It sands and seals well.

2. Understand what this paint is used for. A primer is used under the top coat to prepare the surface for painting. It covers dark colors and stains so less coats of paint are needed and it hides minor imperfections in the surface.

3. Know the paint's drying time. Latex primer sealer dries faster than many other paints. It dries to the touch in 60 to 90 minutes. It dries completely in about 3 hours and can be repainted then.

4. Understand what kind of materials this primer works best on. Use latex primer sealer when there are heavy coats of flat finish paint to cover or when the paint is very dark colored, stained or really dirty. It works well on gypsum board, cured plaster, masonry and sheet rock (drywall).

5. Prepare the surface first. Clean the surface of all dust, wax or dirt. You may want to damp wipe it or wash it with a soap safe for the surface. Rinse well and let the surface dry completely.

6. Fill in any holes or cracks with a appropriate material before applying latex primer-sealer. Sand the patched areas until smooth. Cover up anything that paint may splatter on.

7. Use a brush that is polyester, nylon or a blend, a medium roller or a spray painter with this primer. Be sure to cover with light coats as this paint can get too thick and cause problems, especially in corners.

8. Use warm, soapy water on hands, brushes and pans for cleanup.

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Tips About Airless Spray Painting

Airless sprayers

are perfect for big painting jobs.

Airless paint sprayers are a variation of the compressed air sprayers that were developed in the early 1900's. As the name implies, airless sprayers use a pneumatic pump instead of air to force paint through the nozzle of the gun under high pressure. This technology allows you to spray a higher volume of paint, making airless guns suitable for large painting jobs for which precision is not the main concern.

Choose the Right Nozzle

Manufacturers of airless sprayers make a variety of tips to use with them. The tip you choose depends on the size of the job, the thickness of the coating you need and the material you are spraying. The two variables on spray tips are the size of the orifice and the width of the fan. A larger orifice delivers more paint per square foot, while a wider fan width delivers less. Choose the tip to regulate paint flow to minimize dripping, sagging and over spray while maximizing coverage. Keep in mind the type of paint you are spraying, remembering that the gun sprays stains and thin paints like primer faster than it sprays heavier exterior paints and enamels. If paint is sputtering from the gun, consider using a tip with a wider orifice before thinning the paint.

Overspray

Over spray is a major concern when using an airless sprayer. There is no way to avoid it, and if you don't take proper steps, you may have a cleanup that takes longer than the actual paint job. Be sure to cover all doors, windows, woodwork and trim with masking tape and paper, and tape the paper together so the force of the spray doesn't separate it. If spraying indoors, cover all nearby furniture with plastic, and secure it with tape. Even if the furniture is not in the direct path of the sprayer, it may still become covered by a fine mist of paint if you don't cover it. If spraying outdoors, cover shrubs, driveways and lawn furniture. Move your cars to a safe location out of the painting area.

Airless Equipment

Unlike air sprayers, airless equipment comes in many different sizes, from heavy-duty industrial machines for painting buildings to handheld ones for use around the house. Don't bother renting a large machine if all you want to spray are a few pieces of garden furniture, but don't try to use your handheld sprayer to paint your house, either. Most medium-duty airless sprayers that you can rent for home use are suited for interior and exterior wall painting, but for a one-time use on a fence, save money in the long run by buying an inexpensive handheld sprayer that you can keep for future jobs.

Spraying Technique

After you fill the container of the sprayer with paint, test the pattern before you begin. If you have several tips on hand, use the one that gives you the widest fan while leaving a wet coat on the surface without drips. When you spray, keep the gun at a uniform distance from the work at all times, and overlap the spray pattern by about 50 percent. Keep the gun moving while you are spraying, and come back to areas that need more paint after you have painted the entire surface. Finally, clean the gun and tip thoroughly with water or solvent after each use.

Safety

The high pressure developed by airless sprayers can force the paint through your skin. Keep the gun pointed away from you at all times, and never put your hand in front of the nozzle. Protect your eyes and the rest of your body from over spray by wearing safety glasses, protective clothing and a hat. If you examine your hat after a session of spraying, you'll be happy that you were wearing it.

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Experiments With Color & Fresh paint

Experimenting with color and paint is a good way to learn about the best combinations.

Playing with color and paint allows you to do scientific experiments while being creative and artistic. It can allow you to learn more about basic color theories and how colors and paint are made. All you need are a few simple supplies you should already have in your house and you will be ready to start experimenting with colors and paints.

Vegetable Paint Dye

Learn make your own natural paint colors by using vegetables. For this science experiment, you will need skins from a variety of vegetables, such as carrots, beets, radishes and zucchini. Whole broccoli, peppers and spinach also work for this activity. Freeze the vegetables overnight. The next day, put each vegetable in its own cup and thaw. You can use the microwave if you are short on time. Grind, crush and chop each vegetable until pulp is all that is left. Add 5 teaspoons of water to each cup and let sit for 5 minutes. Take a paintbrush and dip it into one cup and then use it to paint on paper. See what color each vegetable can create to learn make natural dyes.

Color Changing Milk

When mixing milk, food coloring and liquid soap, very strange things can happen. Gather up all the materials you will need ahead of time: milk, a dinner plate, food coloring, dish washing soap and cotton swabs. Pour the milk in the dinner plate to cover it, but do not let it overflow. Let the milk sit for 5 minutes so it can settle. Add a drop of four different food colorings. Keep the drops close together, but not on top of each other. Use a cotton swab and dip it in the milk without stirring and see what happens. Next, pour a drop of dish washing soap on another cotton swab and once again, dip it in the milk. Wait 10 to 15 seconds and take note of what happens to all the colors. Try putting the cotton swab at different places in the milk dish to see if the results change.

Spininng Color Wheel

Make a simple spinning color wheel to learn about primary, secondary and complementary colors using basic craft materials. Cut a circle of about 5 inches in diameter out of cardboard. Use a compass or a round object to trace the form and then use scissors to cut the circle. With a pen and ruler, divide the circle in 6 equal pie-like sections. Using paint, color each pie section in the following order: yellow, orange, red, purple, blue and green. Make a small hole in the middle of the circle with your scissors and pull an 18-inch string of yarn through the hole so that equal parts remain on either side of the circle. With a string on each hand, spin it until the yarn is twisted on itself. With a firm grip, pull on both strings and let the color wheel turn on itself. Look at the colors and see what happens when it gains more speed.

Color Ice Cubes

Another fun way to learn how colors interact is to use food coloring and ice cubes. Prepare ahead of time by making ice cubes that each have a drop or two of red, yellow or blue food coloring. When doing the experiment, you will need cups halfway filled with hot, but not boiling, water. Start by putting two cubes of different colors in one cup and try to predict what will happen once both cubes are melted. By mixing a red and a blue cube, you should get a purple mix. Later on, try creating new colors, such as magenta and aquamarine, by adding a single cube of a primary color to a previous mix that resulted in a secondary color.

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Victorian Bathroom Colors

The Victorians used more colors in their decorating than is fashionable now, often pairing them with wallpaper and painted wood and plaster work. A traditional Victorian look would often use three or more colors within one scheme, using plasterwork rails to define the boundaries of each tone. The right colors will complement a Victorian home and show off a vintage bathroom suite.

Popular Colors in Victorian Times

Specialist paint companies have paints that relate specifically to the Victorian period, and are matched to existing Victorian interior schemes. Use colors such as Brunswick Green, Salmon, Picture Gallery Red and Yellow Ochre for an authentically Victorian look.

Combine Paint and Wallpaper

It was fashionable in the Victorian era to wallpaper below the dado rail, a plaster rail that runs around the room about 3 feet from the floor, and paint above it. Pick a wallpaper designed by a Victorian designer -- many are still available today -- or source flocks and damask patterns for an authentic style. Paint any space between the picture rail, a plaster rail that runs around the room, a couple of feet below the ceiling and the cornicing the same color as the ceiling.

Highlight Archtectural Features

Use a different paint color to highlight architectural features like picture and dado rails, cornicing and skirting boards. Use a strong, rich color to pick out the skirting board and a different but tonal color to pick out the cornicing. The dado rail should be a shade in between the skirting and cornicing.

The Ceiling

Early Victorian ceilings were painted with white distemper, a kind of whitewash made from powdered chalk or lime. Emulate this with an off-white paint shade. Later Victorian style dictated a colored ceiling and often elements of plasterwork were picked out in a different color.

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Fresh paint Baseboard Trim

Clean baseboards before you paint them.

Baseboard trim normally needs painting when the walls do. Since the baseboard runs along the floor, the carpet, tile or wood flooring requires protection from the paint. Dropcloths can scrunch up, dinging wet paint and causing a multitude of headaches as you try to repair the damage. Protect the flooring and paint the baseboard by using the right equipment.

Instructions

1. Wipe the baseboard with a clean cloth, removing all dust and dirt.

2. Sweep the carpet next to the baseboards. Use a sweeper attachment to dig between the baseboard and the carpet to remove hidden dirt.

3. Apply painter's tape along the wall at the top of the baseboard. Lay dropcloths or old sheets on the carpet or floor 2 to 3 inches from the baseboard.

4. Slide a thin sheet of poster or cardboard between the carpet or floor and the baseboard. The poster or cardboard keeps the paint from touching the flooring.

5. Paint the baseboard with a 3-inch paintbrush. Use back-and-forth gliding motions to apply the paint. Allow the paint to dry for two to three hours.

6. Peel the painter's tape from the wall above the baseboard. Press the poster or cardboard down gently on the carpet and pull it from the baseboard. On flat flooring, gently wiggle the cardboard so it can loosen without removing paint from the baseboard. Remove and discard the cardboard into a trash can.

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Fresh paint Auto Trim

Many vehicles come from the factory with sleek paint jobs but dull, unpainted black or gray trim. The dull trim is usually found on the mirrors, windows, the lower portion of the front and rear bumpers and the running boards or ledge below the doors. Painting these parts can change the entire look of a vehicle.

Instructions

1. Sand all of the trim pieces by hand with 300 grit sandpaper. Using a sander or sanding block won't work because the trim pieces are too small and have contoured shapes. Sand all of the pieces again using 800 grit sandpaper. Sand until the pieces are scuffed and smooth.

2. Wipe all of the sanded trim pieces with a rag and wax and grease remover to clean and remove any dust. Place masking tape along the edges of the trim pieces and place paper under the tape on the painted areas of the car to protect the paint from overspray.

3. Spray two thin coats of primer on the sanded trim pieces. Allow the primer to dry.

4. Paint a thin coat of paint on each trim piece and allow it to become tacky and almost dry before applying another coat. Two or three thin coats should be enough.

5. Spray two or three coats of clear coat paint on top of the completely dried paint. Allow the clear coat to dry for 30 minutes before removing the masking tape and paper.

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Just How Much Does Sandblasting Cost

Sandblasters are often used to remove old paint.

Sandblasting is the process of propelling abrasive particles at a high speed onto a surface. It is used to clean surfaces by freeing them from clinging particles. These particles are usually old paint or rust. Sandblasting is also used for etching. There are companies specializing in sandblasting or you can buy or rent a sandblast kit.

Process

A sandblasting setup has three parts. This includes an air compressor, a blaster nozzle and the abrasive. The abrasive most commonly used was once sand particles but, due to health concerns, other materials are now used such as steel grit, copper slag, aluminum oxide, or walnut or coconut shell particles.

Contractors

If you need sandblasting done, you can hire a company that specializes in sandblasting. The cost varies but it generally runs between $30 and $60 an hour (as of January 2011).

Do-It-Yourself

If you wish to do the sandblasting yourself, you will need a sandblasting kit. You can rent one for about $9 to $15 a day. You will also need to rent an air compressor if you do not have one which will cost roughly $15to $30 a day. You will need abrasive, which costs about $60 per 50 lbs. You can buy a new sandblast kit for about $18 and a new air compressor for $90 to $200. Smaller, light jobs,may cost about $100.

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Fresh paint Asphalt Siding

When it comes to painting asphalt siding, you have to be careful who you listen to. Many people recommend that asphalt siding be painted with a heavy-duty rubberized, elastomeric paint to ensure a long-lasting finish. This can be disastrous. Because elastomeric paint seals everything out and in, it is not what professionals call a breathable coating. This means that moisture is allowed to build up underneath the siding, which eventually causes the underlying wood to rot, mold or mildew. If you need to paint asphalt siding, you need to know what kind of materials to use, or you may end up causing costly damage to your home.

Instructions

1. Wash away dust and dirt using a pressure washer. Allow the surface to dry completely.

2. Fill a 5-gallon bucket halfway with exterior latex primer. Attach the nap cover to the frame.

3. Apply primer to the asphalt siding using the roller. Roll vertically, moving left to right.

4. Apply primer to the any tight areas you couldn't reach with the roller using the paintbrush.

5. Clean each painting tool using water.

6. Apply exterior acrylic latex paint in the same manner as you did the primer in steps 2, 3 and 4.

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Avoid Dangers In Spray Painting

Wearing safety equipment is one way to avoid the dangers of spray painting.

Spray painting is a quick way to add an attractive finish to objects both large and small. This form of painting can have some dangerous effects on your skin, eyes and respiratory system, which is why you must take precautions before beginning any spray-painting project. You can ensure your safety during the process with pre-planning and some inexpensive safety equipment.

Instructions

1. Put on safety goggles to protect your eyes from any stray paint droplets. The aerosol pressure that sprays the paint projects thousands of droplets of paint out of a hole no bigger than a needle point. These droplets commonly spray outward, which is why protecting your eyes (and eye sight) from errant spray is crucial.

2. Wear rubber gloves while preparing to paint as well as when painting. Rubber gloves will keep your hands clean and protect them from irritation caused by any cleaning products used and paint exposure.

3. Wear a face mask any time you are working with spray paint. As stated in step 1, thousands of airborne paint droplets spew forth through a tiny hole in the spray paint can. The droplets fly in all different directions. Breathing in the paint or the fumes can cause breathing problems, throat irritation and dizziness, all of which can be avoided simply by wearing a mask.

4. Hold the spray paint can away from your body, and make sure the tip is pointed outward before spraying. Never spray back toward your body or toward another person.

5. Work in a well-ventilated area to prevent respiratory problems and dizziness. If you're painting indoors, open all of the windows in the room.

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What Removes Fresh paint From Vinyl Siding

Remove paint from vinyl siding.

Vinyl is a highly durable material commonly used for house siding. It does not dent easily and cleaning dirt from the surface is simple. However, removing accidental paint stains from vinyl siding requires a little more work, especially if you are trying to remove an entire coat of old paint.

Paint Thinner

Paint thinner is the recommended method for removing oil-based paint drips from vinyl siding. Attempting to remove oil-based paint using only a scraper might not be enough to penetrate the tough paint film of dried oil paint. Paint thinner soaks into dried paint and breaks down the hard surface of oil paint for faster removal. Wear a pair of rubber gloves to prevent the thinner from absorbing into skin. Pour thinner over a rag and wipe the dried paint, followed by light scraping. Cover the scraper with a rag to avoid scratching the siding.

Pressure Washer

Pressure washing can be used to remove paint on a larger scale, such as preparing a vinyl sided house for a brand new coat of paint. Unless the old paint is in extremely poor condition, pressure washing does not remove every chip of paint from vinyl, but the water removes loose paint chips and significantly reduces scraping time. Pressure washing vinyl requires a low-pressure tip and setting to avoid damaging the surface. Applying excessive water pressure over vinyl siding could force water underneath and lead to mold and water damage.

Soap and Water

A mixture of soap and warm water penetrates most water-based paint stains or drips on vinyl siding. Dip a sponge into a bucket of dish soap and warm water and scrub the painted siding in a circular motion. If dish soap does not do the trick, try adding a little household detergent to the mix. The old paint should break down and come off onto the rag.

Scraping

Scraping removes loose paint from vinyl siding, in preparation for new paint. If used properly, paint scrapers remove loose chips of paint quickly without damaging the vinyl siding. Pressing too firmly on a scraper could gouge the siding and leave noticeable marks. Light scratches are not a problem if the siding is going to be entirely repainted with a new coat of paint. For removal of accidental drips on siding, cover a paint scraper with a damp rag and lightly apply pressure.

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Securely Remove Fresh paint From Vinyl Siding

Use a scraper and paint thinner to remove paint from vinyl siding.

Vinyl siding is a type of home exterior material that is durable, long-lasting and simple to maintain. Homeowners often decide to repaint vinyl siding, for home improvement reasons. Before repainting, the old, chipping paint must be removed from the vinyl siding. Occasional mishaps also occur when paint splatters and transfers onto vinyl siding, requiring removal. Whatever the reason is for paint removal, there are effective supplies for safely removing paint from vinyl siding.

Instructions

1. Scrape off the paint, using a plastic paint scraper. Apply light pressure to the scraper, to prevent damage to the siding.

2. Spray the siding with water from a garden hose, to rinse off the paint chips. Inspect the siding for remaining paint.

3. Apply paint thinner to a clean cloth. Gently rub the cloth over the paint-stained siding. Continue rubbing paint thinner over the siding, until the paint is completely removed. Rinse the siding thoroughly with the garden hose, to remove paint thinner residue.

4. Dry the siding with a clean towel. Repeat the entire process if some paint remains on the siding.

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New House Ceiling Ideas

Adding a window by means of a skylight or dormer provides natural lighting to cut electric costs.

Along with the floor, the ceiling is the most expansive area in the house, yet it is often never even considered when it comes to decor, except in terms of paint. A new house presents the opportunity to create a ceiling that fits into your overall style. A ceiling design can even become an interactive partner with your lifestyle.

Soundproofing Your Ceiling

Soundproofing your ceiling is a very wise idea, especially for two-story homes. A soundproofed first-floor ceiling will lessen the impact of footsteps, exercise movements and rambunctious kids being heard when you are below. Add some soundproofing to the walls of a room planned for kids or a home theater or if someone in the family is a musician.

Skylights, Dormers and Tubular Skylights

Adding skylights to a new ceiling allows the house to be lit naturally with sunlight, which can cut down on electrical use during daylight hours and provide a breathtaking view at night. A skylight over the kitchen can provide better illumination of the food you are preparing. A dormer window is perfect for an artist's studio you plan to locate in the attic. If you suffer from Seasonal Affective Disorder, consider placing a tubular skylight in your ceiling plans. Tubular skylights are a new technology that allows sunlight to be distributed more evenly through the house.

False Beams

When building a new home, you have the choice of creating a ceiling with exposed beams or installing false beams. The choice of real or false beams is determined by the style of your roof. A false beam made of wood can be shaped, stained or painted for added decorative effect. If the style of your furnishings and decor refers back to a more rustic era, your false beam can be stained to give the ceiling an aged effect.

Planning for Ceiling Fans

Most people building a new home should at least consider installing ceiling fan outlets and wiring even if you don't immediately add the fan. If you decide later on that you want to add a ceiling fan, having the house prewired for it makes installation much easier.

Secret Hiding Places

Building a new home offers the perfect opportunity to install a secret hiding place in the ceiling. A secret compartment concealed by the ceiling is the ideal place to store valuables that might otherwise be lost in a burglary, or to hide presents from the kids during the holiday season.

Tin Ceiling

A tin ceiling over the dining area lends your home a sense of the opulence of the 19th century, when the dining table was the centerpiece for conversation as well as eating. You could install a metal ceiling anywhere and everywhere, but try to visit a home or establishment that has metal ceilings before you make the decision, so you'll know what to expect. Metal tiles come in a vast array of geometric patterns and you also have control over the size of the panels to be installed.

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Reduce the effects of Gold Tiles

Update your gold tile flooring.

Neutralizing a color consists of choosing a color on the opposite side of the color wheel. Think of a clock. Yellow is at the top. Red is at 4 o'clock, and blue is at 8 o'clock. Those are the primary colors. All other colors are formed from blending the primary colors. Adding white lightens the colors. Adding black darkens the color. Gold is comprised of red and yellow.

Instructions

Complementary Colors

1. Go to a paint store or home improvement store. Select paint swatches that you think match the color of your gold tiles. Choose a variety of shades that are darker and lighter as well.

2. Bring the paint swatches home and hold them up against your tile. Pick the one that matches the tile the best. Some gold borders on pale yellow, and other shades are closer to almost a light brown.

3. Find a color wheel online, in an art book or at the home improvement store. Hold the swatch up to the color wheel until you find a color on the wheel that is a close match to your swatch. Look at the color directly across the wheel. It will be a shade of blue, ranging from light blue to closer to purple depending on your shade of gold. Those are the colors you will need to incorporate into your décor to neutralize the gold tile.

4. Paint the walls a very light shade of the complementary color of the gold swatch, in this case a very pale blue. Lay darker blue throw rugs on the tile flooring. Another alternative is to pick area rugs to cover up as much of the gold tile as you can. Use the area rugs to define conversation areas, a dining spot or a nook for reading.

5. Use prints that incorporate a medium shade of blue, the gold in your tile and a lighter shade of gold. All the blue tones down, or neutralizes, the gold.

Dilution

6. Create a color scheme that dilutes the effect of the gold tile by incorporating lots of beige, cream and off-whites.

7. Paint the walls cream. Add off-white draperies to let in lots of light.

8. Cover as much of the gold tile as possible with beige rugs.

9. Choose one other color for accessories that draw the eye away from the gold tile.

Confusion

10. Use colors that are brighter than gold but next to it on the color wheel, such as reds and oranges. These colors confuse the eye so you won't notice the gold tile as much, in effect neutralizing its impact.

11. Paint the walls a pale yellow. For a striking effect, choose one wall and paint it scarlet. You won't notice the gold tile.

12. Add in furniture in strong neutral shades such as charcoal or chocolate brown

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Fresh paint An Outhouse

Once a staple on any property, outhouses are now used more for decoration.

Outhouses, in some form or fashion, have been around ever since man decided he needed some privacy when doing his "business." Most of us now have indoor plumbing, and outhouses are more decorative than useful. But if your corner of the world still uses an outhouse on a regular basis, there are a few painting techniques you can employ to make your visit to the facility a more pleasant experience. The use of lime, or calcium hypochlorite, offers anti-bacterial properties similar to those of household bleach and will also deter insects and pests from taking up residence in your privy.

Instructions

1. Remove everything from the interior of the outhouse. Sweep and damp mop the interior.

2. Mix 1 tbsp. of lime into 1 gallon of water to make a "whitewash."

3. Paint the interior walls, ceiling, floor and seat of the outhouse with this whitewash.

4. Let dry and move accessories back inside.

5. Paint the exterior of the outhouse with a quality exterior paint in the color of your choice. Traditionally, the house was painted red with white trim, but today, you can go wild with color.

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What Should A Cleaning Business Charge

Charging the right amount for a cleaning service is paramount for the company's success. Charge too little, and the company will be run into the ground by a lack of profit. Charge too much, and prospective customers will seek out a more reasonably priced cleaner. Jacquelyn Lynn, author of "Start Your Own Cleaning Service," says pricing for everything from a maid service to carpet cleaning should be determined by three factors: labor and materials, overhead, and profit.

Labor and Materials

The cost of labor and materials is calculated by estimating the man-hours required to complete a task, plus the cost of supplies used. For instance, if a cleaning technician earns $10 per hour and a job will take two hours for one person to complete, then the cost (to the business owner) is $20. Now, suppose the supplies used totaled $5. Then, the total cost of labor and materials would be $25.

A start-up business may consider offering some free services to friends and family members to get an idea of how long it will take to perform particular cleaning tasks.

Overhead

Overhead refers to the expenses of being in business, such as advertising, insurance and automobile expenses, to name a few. As a rule of thumb, Lynn says, overhead costs range from 10 percent to 40 percent of the company's payroll. Once a business has been in operation for about a year, this figure will be easy to calculate. Until then, plan on forecasting based on what is being paid out each month.

If payroll for the year is $50,000 and overhead expenses total $5,000, then the overhead rate is 10 percent.

Profit

Determining how much profit will be in each job is as simple as deciding what percent of the cost should be profit. Cleaning companies operate somewhere between 10 percent and 28 percent of gross sales. The actual figure used will depend on local market conditions.

Using the numbers from above----labor and materials at $25 and overhead at 10 percent, or $2.50----the preprofit figure is $27.50. To make a profit of 20 percent, an additional $5.50 would be added to the figure, bringing the final bill to the customer to $33.

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Develop A Fresh paint Spray Booth

Flawless paint doesn't mean paying through the nose to have someone else do all the work.

Spraying your car at home with regular car paint isn't legal anymore; sorry, but the EPA put an end to that when they restricted the sale volatile organic compound-containing paints to the general public. But all hope isn't lost for determined DIY painters, since you can still primer your car and apply water-based car paints. A water based paint is just as tough as an old enamel, it just doesn't dry to a hard shine. You'll need to send the car out for a clear coat, but you can still convert your garage into a simple paint booth and get the car 95 percent of the way to a finished state.

Instructions

1. Move everything in your garage as close to the walls as possible. Stack any boxes on top of each other and get rid of anything that you can't get close to the walls. Open a window in your garage and place the window fan into it so that it blows outward. Use the largest box fan that will fit in the window.

2. Open a window on the opposite side of the room if you can. If your garage door has windows, open or remove one of them. If you don't want to alter the outside of your home, then you might consider installing a cat door in the garage door that leads into your home and leaving it open to act as an air intake for your spray booth.

3. Duct tape your air conditioner filter over your air intake window or opening, making sure to thoroughly seal around the edges.

4. Place one or more large tarps on the floor so that they span from wall to wall and up the walls by about 2 feet. Duct tape the tops of the tarp in place. Next, hang tarps on all three of your garage walls. Tape them at the top first, let them hang down. Tape them to the floor tarp at the bottom. Go ahead and cover the door leading into your house; you can trim it later.

5. Hang strips of tarp on either side of your garage door tracks and tape them down at the bottom. Now cut two more pieces of tarp sized to the ceiling and the garage door. Unfortunately, you can't hang the garage door and ceiling tarp until you get the car in the garage, otherwise the door will rip them off when it opens. Just cut them to size now and wait till you get the car in to hang them up.

6. Trim your tarp around the window exhaust fan and the intake filter. Duct tape the tarp in place around the filter and fan. Locate your house door behind the tarp and slip your razor blade in between the door and the frame so you can open the door. If the door opens inward then you'll have to cut the hinge side and reposition the tarp slightly on the door so that it won't pull off when you open it. Cut an X-shape in the tarp so you can turn the knob.

7. Tape the cut edges of your tarp to the top and side of the door and door frame. Wrap the duct tape around the frame slightly so that it goes into the door jamb. Park your car in the garage and close the door. Hang the tarps over your door, door tracks and ceiling. Take a good, hard look around your garage to make sure you haven't left anything uncovered.

8. Turn your exhaust fan on and close or block your intake window or cat door. Look around your garage for tarp movement; this indicates an air leak in the garage, so apply more duct tape where needed to reduce air intrusion. Unblock your air intake, bring a large light into the garage and commence with the spraying.

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Make Fresh paint Remover

don't try this at home

Make Paint Remover. Save yourself money and get a stronger paint remover when you make it from home. Paint remover is toxic whether you buy it or make it yourself. Take precautions to protect yourself such as wearing plastic gloves, protective eye wear and a ventilation mask while making and using any type of paint remover.

Instructions

1. Pour 1 gallon of water into a large bucket. Add 5 of lye to the water. Add more lye for a stronger paint remover.

2. Mix the lye and water until it is combined. Set the homemade paint remover aside and let it cure overnight.

3. Add about half a box of cornstarch in the lye mixture in the morning. Continuously stir the mixture until the cornstarch is dissolved.

4. Use a paint brush to apply the paint remover to the surfaces you wish to be treated. Do not get the homemade mixture get on anything other than what you want treated, it will remove the paint from anything.

5. Cover the section that is painted with the paint remover with plastic wrap. Let the paint remover set for an hour or so with the plastic wrap.

6. Remove the plastic wrap. Use a putty knife to aid the paint in coming off. Apply one more treatment of the paint remover if there is paint remaining after the initial treatment.

7. Discard excess paint remover at your local toxic waste management facility. Do not pour paint remover into gutters or down the sink, it is extremely toxic.

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Fresh paint An Inside With Colors For The Emotions

Have fun experimenting with color.

Painting your home with certain colors can influence how you feel on a daily basis. "Real Simple" magazine says violet and red are stimulating colors that can affect your energy level by making your body produce more adrenaline. Cheerful colors like green and yellow can bring on feelings of happiness and contentment. Light blue is peaceful and relaxing. Neutral shades like beige, brown, white and cream don't influence mood too much, but you can still choose these colors for certain rooms if you like how they look.

Instructions

1. Take a walk through your home and decide which colors go well with the style and decor in each room. It's important to select shades that blend with the overall theme in every room. Think about the mood you want to create, as well. Certain colors might go well in the bedroom, while a more vivid shade may be appropriate for an office.

2. Select cheerful colors such as yellow and green for rooms where you spend a lot of time, such as the kitchen or living room. All shades of yellow induce feelings of joy, but not all shades work well. Citrus yellow can work in a kitchen that has white or oak cupboards, but it clashes with cherry wood cabinetry. Muted green can work with cherry cabinets. You can also use bold colors in the kitchen, such as violet, if you want to create a happy but assertive mood.

3. Choose relaxing colors in rooms where you wind down or sleep. Peaceful, calming colors work well in a bedroom, guest room or library. You can use a bold color such as vivid red in a bedroom or guest room, but limit it to an accent wall. Dark colors can work well in a master bedroom, but choose carefully.

4. Paint a workout room red or violet to stimulate energy and mood. These power colors can lift your spirits while you exercise.

5. Use cheerful or motivating colors in your home office. Bright colors like yellow or green can make you feel happy while you work. Red and violet can create a sense of assertiveness, which is helpful when you're working.

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Fresh paint Outside Steps

Make sure the weather will be dry before painting outdoor steps.

The way to paint outdoor steps changes depending on the steps' material. It is important to make sure the weather permits outdoor painting. Painting your steps and liven up your outdoor walk way and bring color to the scenery. By painting your own outdoor steps, you can save money and brush up on your home maintenance skills.

Instructions

1. Check to weather forecast to ensure it will not rain or snow, or have heavy winds for at least a week.

2. Scrape the old paint off the steps if necessary and thoroughly clean the steps with a soap and warm water mixture. Do this by pouring the mixture on the steps, let them soak for about two minutes and use a scrub brush to scrub the excess dirt off. Rinse the steps after washing them. If the steps are wooden, sand them down with sand paper.

3. Prime the surface with a primer appropriate to the material the steps are made out of. If they are wood, get an outdoor wood primer, metal needs a metal primer, and concrete needs to be coated with a degreaser and allowed to dry for two days. When priming, completely cover the steps with the primer using a paintbrush and allow for it to dry.

4. Completely cover the steps with the desired color of outdoor paint using a paint brush. Make sure to start painting in the afternoon, when the sun is starting to go down, and cover every area of the steps. Allow the stairs to completely dry overnight and apply a second coat the next day. Allow the steps to dry for 24 hours before using them regularly.

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